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Rock Climber - Mountain Guide SkiCoach - Psychologist 🧗♂️ @grivel @lasportivagram @lazyghost__ 🎿 @vandeer_redbull_sports 💪 @latticetraining 👇
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#tradclimbing#climbing#crackclimbing#valledellorco#yosemite_national_park#yosemite#grivel#lasportiva#climbing_worldwide#climbing_photos_of_instagram
Recent posts
LA VOIE PETIT ✅🥹 (8b, 450m)
On July 3rd, I managed to complete the first Italian free ascent 🇮🇹 (as far as I Know😅) of the Voie Petit on the ⛰️ Grand Capucin, leading all the hard pitches.
There are projects you keep in the back of your mind for years, waiting for the psychological coolness to decipher a granite labyrinth at nearly 4,000 meters above sea level.
The Voie Petit on the Grand Capucin was exactly that for me: the ultimate dream, just a stone’s throw from home. In the past few days, that dream has become a reality.
Two intense days on one of the most severe granite faces on the planet. Climbing at this altitude requires pinpoint precision: the air is thin, and the climbing is a puzzle of pure friction and micro-cracks, with protection always far away.
Feeling @ventu.ndr’s total trust at the belay gave me a mental lightness I’d been searching for for a long time.
People often imagine the life of a professional athlete as being dedicated solely to rock climbing. My daily routine has a different rhythm. My days are divided between my daily work as a Mountain Guide, being a father of two, and my life as a professional climber.
Managing a family, being there for your children, and simultaneously maintaining physical fitness while climbing a route like this requires knowing how to optimize every single hour.
And this is my greatest reward. My family has never been a barrier, but rather my center of gravity.
💛 @__giada.__ 👶👧
Knowing that I can return to the valley and rediscover my daily routine gives me essential peace of mind when I find myself hanging on a precarious micro-friend.
Reaching the summit with Mont Blanc in the background gave me a feeling of profound gratitude.
A fraternal thank you to Andrea Venturin: without our synergy on the wall, it wouldn’t have been the same.
📸Thank you @lorenzobelfrondphotographia and @andreapasserini for these shots, which today and in the future I will proudly share with my children.
Thanks to my sponsors for their fundamental support in this adventure.
Jam after Jam.
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#dream
🇮🇹 in comment
24 Jul 2026
La Pura Pura 8c(+) trad
One year ago I could do the 3 ascent of this Line 😍
One of my best climbing emotion….💛
@grivel @lasportivagram @lazyghost__ @guidealpinecourmayeur @guide_alpine_vda
📸 @pinopictures
#tradclimbing #climbing #valledellorco #grivel #lasportiva #foryourmountain #crackclimbing
11 Oct 2025
NECRONOMICON 5.14/8b+ Trad ✅
Yes I did it!
The October 28th I could do the 6th ascent of Necronomicon.
This Line is so unique: a 30 meter roof crack with 6 meter of hard and puwerfull “Green“ size.
I started dreaming about Necronomicon during my last trip to Moab, last spring. 🏜️
I’m so proud that I was able to plan and manage a project like this in the other side of the world. And so happy to have been able to push my limit a step forward in my crack climbing experience.
Definitely the most difficult crack I’ve climbed and the most psychologically challenging project🤯
Climbing in the “desert” it’s a real dream for me … so let the dream go ahed.
Necronomicon was discovered by @rob_pizem , then was climbed for the first time by the legendary @jpouellet in 2011 and first repeted by @tompaulrandall and @petewhittaker01 in 2019, and then just 2 more ascent @tradprincess and @bronwynhodgins !
I am incredibly grateful to @tradprincess who inspired me and made me dream of this line in the desert and took these beautiful photos that now and in the future I will be able to proudly show to my children! ♥️
I’m gratefull to @__giada.__ my wife that she take care about them during all my trips 🧒👶
And a special thanks to @_._yankee_._ , we spend toghether an intense month and we share great emotions
📸 @tradprincess
@grivel 🤍
@lasportivagram 💛
@lazyghost__ 💙
@guidealpinecourmayeur @guide_alpine_vda
#tradclimbing #crackclimbing #climbing_worldwide
28 Nov 2025
THE PHŒNIX - second go 🤩
Il primo 5.13 della Storia
Non succede spesso ma ogni tanto l’arrampicata regala momenti in cui tutto va magicamente a posto. Sei talmente dentro la via che fai quello che devi fare nel momento esatto, senza quasi neanche accorgertene, e la scalata scorre fluida. Sono quelle prestazioni rare ed emozionanti che ti fanno amare profondamente questo sport 😍
Una delle fessure più iconiche e storiche del mondo. Nel 1977 Ray Jardine ha tracciato questa linea scalandola con i « friend » che aveva appena inventato, rivoluzionando per sempre l’arrampicata.
🇬🇧
The First 5.13 in History
It doesn’t happen often, but every now and then climbing delivers moments where everything magically falls into place. You are so deep in the route that you do what you need to do at the exact right moment, almost without even realizing it, and the climbing flows smoothly. Those are the rare and thrilling performances that make you deeply love this sport 😍
One of the most iconic and historic cracks in the world. In 1977, Ray Jardine established this line by climbing it with the « friends » (camming devices) he had just invented, changing climbing forever.
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@latticetraining
@lazyghost__
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#yosemite_national_park #friends #crackclimbing #thephoenix #climbing_photos_of_instagram
05 Nov 2026
Congrats @marcosappa !! 💪🤩🔥
Peace 5.13d
Phoenix 5.13a (2nd go)
Alien finish 5.12 (onsight)
Tales of Power 5.12 (flash)
Getting to see climbers that we’ve worked with for a number of years (since 2024 in Marco’s case) is such a journey for us too as we watch from the sidelines as trip rampages unfold 🙌. It’s maybe one of our loveliest work-chat-groups we have at Lattice where all of us coaches share our client and athlete successes with each other, often much of it never reaching social media as we just enjoy sharing the psyche amongst ourselves and finding out what worked with other coaches. It’s like a little hive-mind of coaching knowledge and motivation 🤓
However… sometimes we do a few shout outs. Mainly when we feel someone is themselves driving more inspiration to the community. That’s where we have to give Marco some credit - his last couple of years of photos here on Insta have been filled with some of the best crack routes around the globe whilst also working as a clinical psychologist. Pretty sure his coach @rafafordgonzalez will eventually get dragged into a jamming route or two at this rate 🤣
Next thing for Marco? Magic Line ofc 😍😍😍
Photos by: @_sarah_christina 🙏🙏
01 Nov 2026
⚡️YOSEMITE VIBES⚡️
🤯😳😬
@_._yankee_._
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@latticetraining
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#climbing #yosemite_national_park #yosemite #tradclimbing #fearofheights
29 Oct 2026
TALES OF POWER ⚡️Flash
Nel 2017 sognavo Separate Reality, sono venuto qui e l’ho scalata. Accanto a me, quel giorno, c’era mia moglie. Oggi sono tornato nello stesso identico settore, concentrato sul presente, mentre lei è a casa con i nostri due figli. 👶👧
Tales of Power è dura bellissima e perfetta 🤯! è stata una bella sfida fisica, tecnica e mentale. Scalare “flash” significa non avere spazio per il dubbio: devi fidarti del tuo istinto un millesimo di secondo prima che il corpo esiti. 😅
Negli anni cambia l’approccio tecnico, cambia la gestione della paura, cambia il modo di dialogare con la roccia. Ma, soprattutto, cambia il modo di guardarsi dentro. In questo viaggio non sono solo: la crescita più grande è quella condivisa ogni giorno con mia moglie e la mia famiglia, i miei veri compagni di cordata nella vita.
Torniamo negli stessi posti non per vedere se la linea è ancora lì, ma per misurare chi siamo diventati. 🔥
🙏 @_._yankee_._
📸 🙏 Alessandro Sipala
📸 ❤️ @martinpoetter
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@latticetraining
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#Yosemite #TalesOfPower #TradClimbing #LaSportiva #Grivel
🇬🇧
In 2017, I dreamed of Separate Reality. I came here and I climbed it. Right beside me that day was my wife. Today, I found myself back in that exact same sector, fully focused on the present, while she is back home with our two kids. 👶👧
Tales of Power is tough! It was a great physical, technical, and mental challenge. Flashing means leaving absolutely no room for hesitation: you have to trust your instinct a split second before your body doubts itself. 😅
Over the years, your technical approach evolves, your relationship with fear changes, and so does the way you dialogue with the rock. But most importantly, the way you look inside yourself changes. I am not alone on this journey: my greatest growth is the one I share every day with my wife and my family, my ultimate climbing partners in life.
We return to the same places not to see if the line is still there, but to measure who we have become. 🔥
26 Oct 2026
ROSTRUM & 👽 ALIEN ROOF Onsight ✅
Benvenuti nella “Valle” 🏞️🤩
Sono molto fiero di essere riuscito a salire in questo stile un pezzo di storia. In Yosemite l’arrampicata non regala niente … bisogna sempre guadagnarselo😅 e i gradi sono sempre “relativi”
Dopo qualche anno nello Utah 🏜️ era il momento di tornare a respirare quest’atmosfera senza tempo 🤩
👊
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#yosemite_national_park #yosemite #climbing #tradclimbing #legend
🇬🇧
Welcome to “The Valley” 🏞️🤩
I’m very proud to have managed to climb a piece of history in this style. In Yosemite, nothing is given to you for free… you always have to earn it 😅, and the grades are always “relative.”
After a few years in Utah 🏜️, it was time to return and breathe in this timeless atmosphere once again 🤩
🙏 @_._yankee_._
21 Oct 2026
☠️ Suona Morto ☠️ 8a trad ✅
La Valle dell’Orco per me è da sempre un posto magico, il luogo in cui sono cresciuto e mi sono formato come scalatore. Negli anni ho scalato quasi tutte le sue fessure, ma *Suona Morto* era una di quelle gemme che ancora mi mancava all’appello. 😅
Una fessura splitter inclinata a 45/50° corta, esplosiva, dolorosa e molto esigente che ha visto pochissime ripetizioni dalla sua apertura da parte di @petewhittaker01 non penso più di 4/5 in totale @pillolablu_ @siebevanhee @tompaulrandall…. ???
Sono andato a provarla durante il @valle_orco_climbing_festival e ieri sono riuscito a tornare per chiudere i conti 🤩 ed aggiungere questo Gemma 💎 alla mia collezione 😉Che linea!
🙏 @marco_ghi87 @_._yankee_._ @klaas_willems
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
@wide_boyz
#tradclimbing #crackclimbing #climbing #valledellorco climbing_photos_of_instagram
🇬🇧
Suona Morto ☠️ 8a trad ✅
For me, the Orco Valley has always been a magical place—the place where I grew up and developed as a climber. Over the years, I’ve climbed almost all of its cracks, but *Suona Morto* was one of those gems that had still eluded me. 😅
It’s a short, 45–50° angled crack—explosive, painful, and incredibly demanding. It’s one of those uncompromising lines that really puts your jamming skills to the test. It has seen very few repeats since @petewhittaker01 first established it—I don’t think there have been more than four or five in total (shoutout to @pillolablu_, @siebevanhee, and @tompaulrandall…).
I visited during the @valle_orco_climbing_festival, and yesterday I managed to go back and settle the score 🤩, adding this gem 💎 to my collection. 😉 What a line!
05 Oct 2026
The 4 DREAMS of an endless summer ☀️🌅
💎Voie Petit 8b - First italian ascent -
ONE OF MY BIGGEST DREAM EVER
⛰️Grand Capucin
⚒️ @arnaudpetit_climb
💎 Golden Tower 8a
THE BEST LIMESTONE OF THE WEST!
⛰️Tour D’Areau
⚒️ Nico Potard
💎Ave Michel 7c+ (8a) - second ascent
ONE OF THE LAST CRAZY HARD TRAD PITCH IN THE TACUL AREA THAT I WAS MISSING
⛰️ Pic Adolphe Rey
⚒️ @francescocivra_mountainguide
💎Trying hard on the best granit line of Europe 🤩😉
Thanks to everyone who made these dreams of mine possible! ❤️
@__giada.__ ❤️
@ventu.ndr
@lucaformagnana
@_._yankee_._
Tommi Filippo and Emma Rubina
📸 @lorenzobelfrondphotographia
@andreapasserini
And My sponsor:
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
And
@guidealpinecourmayeur
@guide_alpine_vda
#climbingismypassion #climbinglife #climbinglovers #climbing_worldwide #tradclimbing
01 Oct 2026
“Occhi Nuovi” 👀 8a+ ✅
Anche se Le fessure le ho scalate (Quasi😅) tutte,
la valle dell’Orco regala sempre nuove gemme 💎 da Ri-scoprire …
“Occhi nuovi” è uno spigolo spettacolare sulle pareti del Sergent un altro capolavoro intuito da @mauriziooviglia nel 2006 😍
Scalato la prima volta da Federica e poi lentamente dimenticato…
La linea e la scalata “granitica” sono unici🤩
È stato bello condividere con @klaas_willems la salita il primo giorno del @valle_orco_climbing_festival ❤️🔥
@grivel
@lasportivagram
@lazyghost__
@guide_alpine_vda
@guidealpinecourmayeur
#climbing #orcovalley #valledellorco #granit #climbing_photos_of_instagram
🇬🇧
Even though I’ve climbed (almost 😅) all the cracks there,
the Orco Valley always offers new gems 💎 to re-discover…
“Occhi nuovi” is a spectacular arête on the walls of Sergent—another masterpiece envisioned by @mauriziooviglia in 2006 😍
First climbed by Federica and then slowly forgotten…
The line and the “granite” climbing are unique 🤩
It was great sharing the experience with @klaas_willems on the first day of the @valle_orco_climbing_festival ❤️🔥
29 Sep 2026
“Over the last few years, I’ve realised that what I truly seek in climbing is no longer just the pure difficulty, but the overall experience.”
For @marcosappa , a rare four days away with his wife Giada became exactly that. A chance to step out of daily routine, and experience some of the best crack lines in Val Bavona, Ticino.
The main goal was Butterfly Circus 8b, a flawless 25 metre crack first discovered by Fred Moix and Didier Berthod in 2021, and freed by @fredmoix in 2022.
Marco described it as “one of the most beautiful and reference crack lines in the Alps”, cutting through the wall in a surreal, increasingly overhanging parabola.
On his first day, he was so psyched that he believed a flash might be possible. He climbed close to the top, but fell “completely pumped”. Instead of forcing another tired attempt, he rested, came back fresh, and on his third go overall, everything clicked.
Butterfly Circus 8b, climbed in two sessions.
During the same trip, Marco also onsighted Fratanger, a overhanging 50 degree crack. Without the perfect rack of cams, he had to manage small runouts, trust less than ideal placements, and rely fully on his experience.
“Pulling off a pure onsight on such a steep, demanding line in those conditions felt amazing.”
What makes this even more impressive is that the trip was completely improvised. Marco had not been preparing specifically for crack climbing, but after years of working with Lattice coach Raf, he says the biggest value has been feeling “in great shape and completely injury free”, with a strong baseline that lets him perform across different styles when the opportunity appears.
“It gives me the consistency to be ready whenever the opportunity arises, no matter the style. Huge credit to Raf for managing this balance so perfectly!”
Massive congratulations Marco. What a beautiful reminder that training is not always about preparing for one exact route. Sometimes, it is about building the robustness, confidence and consistency to say yes when the right adventure appears.
Thanks also to: @grivel, @lasportiva, lazyghost, @guidealpinecourmayeur
05 Aug 2026
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