Alexander Megos

Alexander Megos

@alexandermegos

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Professional rock climber. Training content: @megos_board_account Holds: @megosandwoods #carrotsforpower PCL TICKETS BERLIN ⬇️

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Recent posts

The Olympics are over for me. With a 9th place I'm the first one who didn't make finals. Frustration and disappointment are the first two words that come to mind when I think about my performance. And for now there is not much else to say. At some point I'll probably write more about the whole process, my doubts about the Olympics and the format and the time in Japan itself. Good bye Japan. Thank you for all the support I received from friends, family and the community 🙏🏼. @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @nikondach @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #9thplaceisthefirstlooser Pics: @toksuede 04 Aug 2021 Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn’t looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous “one last go”. I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn’t feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my ‘trouble move’ seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves. After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years "Bibliographie" has been by far my longest project to date. I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that "Perfecto Mundo" (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, "Bibliographie" with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. Of course, as the first ascensionist you don't have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people's opinions. Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you! (And yes, there is send footage 😉) Pic @ken_etzel 06 Aug 2020 Ratstaman Vibrations - FA. Already the first time I came to Ceüse back in 2014 I had a look at this route, but never decided to actually try. I got busy with Bibliographie in 2017, which took me a few seasons to finish. In 2021 I gave Rastaman another go and climbed it in three parts on my second day, but didn't go back for it until three weeks ago. Right after the World Cup in Chamonix I headed to Ceüse with @christoph_hanke, @chiarahanke and @janvirtphotography to properly try the route. After five days I got really close to doing it, but couldn't quite piece it together in the end. The World Cup in Briançon came as a welcomed break from hiking up the hill and after a week of competing and training I returned to Ceüse. First day back on the route felt really good and already on the second day of this trip I had the perfect send go! Rastaman is one of those mythical routes for me. Bolted by @chris_sharma a while ago at one of the best crags in the world, tried by a few strong people, but not been done for many years. For sure one of the best routes I've ever done or tried in the 9b range. Thank you @christoph_hanke, @chiarahanke, @luisaflohe, @simon_weisser and @kaethe_atkins for the support and the belays. Thanks @janvirtphotography for the pictures and video (coming out at some point ;-). Thanks also @shawnraboutou for the sessions on the route! @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @tenayaclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @frictionlabs @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower Pic @janvirtphotography 31 Jul 2022 Climbing hard and giving for the future of climbing. @alexandermegos shares with you its summer trip in Australia. It started in Red River Gorge with a sentence: "You should come to Australia; I have a project for you". This is how started the story of the First Ascent of Slice of Heaven 37 (9b). A few months later, the trip is planned, gear packed up, and Megos is off to Australia. "I've been hooked by this line since day 1". Why? "From the bottom, it looks blank on a 40° steep wall. But when you get a closer look, all the holds are here, the rock is compact, and the moves are really fun!" It took 14 days to complete the project. Projecting in Australia on those short routes also allows him to climb several routes, including flashing a 9a. The rest of the time, it’s spend for resting, training, and a bit of surfing. It took 2 trips (14 days total) to send “Slice of Heaven”. On the 1st trip, "I passed the crux and fell on the last move on the 2nd to last day of the trip". He was hooked. And he didn’t wait long to come back; it took him 4 days (on the only good day of the trip) to send this project. Australia was also a great opportunity to connect with the local climbing community and keep exploring the routes. Definitely a place to go for climbing. Video: @taliasuh 10 Nov 2026 The @siuranaclimbingfestival has come to an end and we are already back home in the Frankenjura. Thanks again to @tenayaclimbing for a lovely festival and thanks to all the friends we met out there for the good times. It was a fun boys trip with @leo_cea and @simon_weisser 😎💪🏼. A little more updates about the trip will follow in a few days. Now it’s time to get back to training. @tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @bergfreunde @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes @tempehmanufaktur #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #actimove Pics: @valeriamutinelli (from another Siurana trip a couple of years ago) 09 Nov 2026 Don’t miss your chance to be at the @proclimbingleague in Berlin on the 23rd of January 2027! Tickets are for sale now. Check out the link in my bio to get yours! @proclimbingleague 09 Nov 2026 The @siuranaclimbingfestival has officially started! Three days of climbing, hanging out, climbing films and meeting people! Come by, join us and enjoy some exquisite limestone 👌🏼. @tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @bergfreunde @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes @tempehmanufaktur #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #actimove Pic: @marcozanone 06 Nov 2026 Back in Spain for a short little week to experience the @siuranaclimbingfestival this weekend! Looking forward to seeing what it’s all about and meeting everyone at the crag. There will be a lot of climbing going on, clinics and workshops during the days and a bunch of cool films during the evenings, so make sure to come by! Last trip to this region was when I made the FA of “Tuareg Blanco” in Margalef. Definitely good memories with @urimaraver, @christoph_hanke, @dinosaauuur and @rainer_eder behind the camera 📷. @tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @bergfreunde @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #actimove Pics: @rainer_eder 03 Nov 2026 New projects in the Frankenjura 🙌🏼. It’s crazy that after all these years there are still new lines being found and bolted. They rarely are really good and almost never exceptional. Sometimes they are though. This is a great new line bolted by @philippwarda. Looking forward to jumping back on it before it gets too cold. @tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @bergfreunde @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes @tempehmanufaktur #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #actimove Pics: @_sotikphoto_ 02 Nov 2026 When nature puts on a show✨ Golden hour in our workshop. Wood, light & shadows doing their thing. #frankenjura #alexmegos #climbingholds #wooddesign #franken 31 Oct 2026 Good session on the @kilterboard with the crew. “Hard cruise missle” @50°. Maybe easy 8B, but super fun climb! And yes, we flew a drone in the gym to experiment a little. Video by Inti, our 10 year old drone pilot 👨‍✈️. @tenayaclimbing @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @yeti @bergfreunde @frictionlabs @physivantage @fazabrushes @tempehmanufaktur #stylefirst #carrotsforpower #actimove 30 Oct 2026 The second part of The Bogan Diaries will be out soon. Before it will be released on YouTube though, we will screen the premier of “Slice of Heaven” at this year’s @siuranaclimbingfestival. Come by and join us next week with a packed program from the 6th to 8th of November! @siuranaclimbingfestival @tenayaclimbing Video and edit: @taliasuh 29 Oct 2026

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