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Born-again Italian. Eats and drinks the worthiest calories in Italy.
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How much do you know about balsamic vinegar? I knew nothing before I visited…
ACETAIA SAN GIACOMO
Novellara, Emilia-Romagna
Andrea Bezzecchi is dedicated to “balsamico fermentato, non miscelato.” Fermented, not blended.
Why? Because most of what we know as balsamic vinegar (like the quite glamorous sounding “Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP”) is made fast in mass quantities (dare I say… industrial?), usually by blending cooked grape must, inexpensive wine vinegar and caramel (for color, texture, and sweetness). It’s a bit of a trompe-l’œil: the LOOK of age, in only 60 days. Maybe trompe-la-bouche is the better term: the cheaper bottle buys you a shortcut, and less flavor. Roughly 95 million liters of IGP are made a year, versus about 10-15K of the old fashioned stuff.
What you actually want, when you’re searching out some sexy balsamic to drizzle over freshly churned gelato, as all humans enjoying life should do (am I revealing my privilege? Is this my Alice Waters egg spoon on 60 Minutes moment?), is properly fermented, long-aged grape goodness, with at LEAST 12 years in barrels. That’s a must (sorry, pun intended). The name: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena/Reggio Emilia DOP. As the Consorteria dell’Aceto Balsamico Naturale describes it:
Its COLOR is a deep, glossy dark brown, and its DENSITY shows in a proper, flowing syrupiness.
Its AROMA is complex and penetrating, with a clear but harmonious acidity.
Its FLAVOR is inimitable, a well-balanced sweet and sour.
Andrea is a maniacal, devoted protector of the traditional method. He’s built a real business on micro production, working with many of Italy’s great chefs (@diegorossichef, @sarahcicolini and @nikoromito, to name a few). He’s also bent his own rules to create a few non-industrial, affordable products. His saba, cooked must that’s not fermented, is a standout. Andrea sent me to @ostreriafratellipavesi to try both over panna cotta; somehow, the simpler saba was the ticket.
Over a rapid-fire tour and an espresso with Andrea, the lights went on. I thought, I GET BALSAMIC VINEGAR. Now, I hope you do too.
Go track down some @acetaiasangiacomo. In 🇺🇸, it’s at @gustiamo. You won’t regret it.
28 Oct 2026
So lucky. New oil from @az.agr.fontodi and pizza from @francopepeingrani absolutely the greatest. One of the greatest meals of my life
16 Oct 2026
The dinner with help from distant friends. For @dariocecchinimacellaio and @kimjwicks Our usual Wednesday. Pancotto di cavolo nero. Egg salad @valinno54 tomato salad with @pomo_dama tomatoes. Homemade giardiniera. eggplant scarpone and fagiolini from @peppeguidachef
03 Oct 2026
It’s Wednesday. Ready for @dariocecchinimacellaio and @kimjwicks Stay tuned.
30 Sep 2026
What a night!!! @turisiligato dove off the Tuscan-Ligurian coast and brought back urchins and mussels. Superlative. Joined by @arturopallanti and @trattoriapeposo Manuel and my darling for one of the greatest meals. We drank a magnum of Rosso del Conte from @tascadalmerita thanks to @drughivo.
09 Sep 2026
Like a homing pigeon I always return to @oasis_saporiantichi in Vallesaccarda. The multi-generational Fischetti family is a thrill, their food the perfect expression of season with roots deep in Irpinia. @fischettimichelina1962 @fischettipietro are just two reasons why I love this place so much. And have for many years. Flattened grissini with onions, anchovy gratin, tender zucchini leaves (talli) on potatoes, topped with fried peperoni cruschi. Broken candele with zucchini and flowers, pasta with seasona rotates and a wisp of cheese, just picked cherries with their leaves, cherry sorbetto. Save room for dessert of custard, hazelnuts, home made amarene. Plan a pilgrimage.
06 Jul 2026
The reason for our trip south. @robertodimeoenologo birthday and 40 years of https://www.dimeo.it. A local marching band, hundreds of guests including @jacobkenedy and a huge delicious cake from @pasticceriapansaofficial Worth a voyage.
03 Jul 2026
#vecchiamarinarosetodegliabruzzi What a dinner. With @cristianatiberio I adore this restaurant. Super fresh Adriatic seafood treated with respect. A must.
28 Jun 2026
@dariocecchinimacellaio at our table. What a mustache!!
31 Mar 2026
What a gift. A Romana almond tree from @assenza_corrado Everyone knows how much I love him, and have for many many years. Delivered by my Tuscan brother @dariocecchinimacellaio who always feasts on these special almonds, ever present on my table in a Sicilian bowl, gifted from @pinocuttaia Lucky indeed.
16 Mar 2026
Last night. @arturopallanti @costante_planeta @oricorona and my darling. Wine from @castellodiama archive. And @le_ragnaie. Meat from @dariocecchinimacellaio
10 Mar 2026
Breakfast @shalailinguaglossa celebrating @manueldigregorio birthday. With @dariocecchinimacellaio @kimjwicks @costante_planeta @oricorona @cav_vito_santoro @lucianopennisi Ready to head home. @saropenn
03 Feb 2026
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