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Rocks! š§š¼ @touchstoneclimbing š§„ @mountainhardwear š @madrockclimbing āļø @dmm_climbing š§ @gnarlynutrition š¦µš¼ @sendclimbing āļø @frictionlabs
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Recent posts
See if you can spot the difference⦠itās subtle! š¤Ŗ
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Movie Screen ā 3rd ascent 10/24/25 š“ 4th ascent (and 1st DWS ascent) š 4/27/26.
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I feel incredibly grateful for the generosity and kindness of the NRG community. There was a large number of people I relied heavily on to make this trip and all these ascents happen. To the people who let me crash at their houses and borrow all manner of equipment (ropes, draws, trad gear, SUPs, camera equipment, their CARS), to the people who took time off their actual paying jobs to come document my efforts, and to the people who simply showed us warmth and friendship during our trip, you know who you are. Thank you so so much. Iām blown away by the quality and quantity of climbing in the NRG, but even more so by the generosity of the community. It really does take a village to DWS 5.14 (at least for me), and I couldnāt have done it without you.
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Huge thank you to @grittypics, @etteloc and @karenklane for capturing images of some of the most badass ascents Iāve ever made, which Iām so stoked to share soon.
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After I sport-climbed the MS in October, I dreamed of coming back to try to DWS it. I didnāt think Iād get the opportunity so soon. My progress trying it as a DWS was eerily similar to that of the sport ascent: 2nd try of my 3rd day to send on bolts, 1st try of my 3rd day to send over the water. Of course the biggest obstacle to sending over the water was my head: can I be relaxed enough to execute the crux move with the bundle of fear and nerves I carried in substitution of a rope, and with the water 15ā below summer table? Iām continually surprised that the answer is yes, I can. The 30 years of practice just kinda⦠takes over, and even though Iām scared AF, I try hard. Iām slightly ashamed to admit it but, thatās the thrill I live for: answering that question of ācan I?ā in moments of intensity, fear and awareness. I had so many unforgettable moments like that on this trip, and I can feel it in my body. A month after leaving, Iām still wrecked!
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šø: @karenklane
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@touchstoneclimbing
@mountainhardwear
@madrockclimbing
@dmm_climbing
@sendclimbing
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#rockclimbi
15 Jun 2026
Peahi!
This infamous Nalle slab at the far flung Champagne sector in Rocklands is an improbably blank, exquisite work of art shaped like a huge cresting wave. Itās been tried by many, but sent by few (only about 6 people had done it before this season). Once you have the beta you can dance quickly up to the crux, but standing all the way up on the slopey right foothold and doing the last move seems impossible at first. This year I made it a goal to put in the work to understand the movement.
On my first session back in June I had some decent tries, and was eager to return. On July 6th, I showed up to champagne after trying a dyno for three hours in the sun, dog tired, to find 20+ people at the sector- likely about 4X as many as has ever been there at one time. The beautiful and sometimes overwhelming thing about rocklands is how close the community becomes, and how much each experience, no matter how far from the car, is shared with friends. About an hour into the session @_briansquire_ pulled it off and the psyche soared. An hour later I finally stood all the way up onto the right crux foot, got my left foot up, and fell after grabbing the lip when my right hand picked off at the last second. I could not have gotten closer. After a few more failed attempts the effort of the very long day was starting to catch up to me, and everyone was ready to call it quits. I announced Iād try one more time, though my expectations werenāt high. Stepping off the ground my legs felt shaky with fatigue, but I stood all the way up on the crux foot once more, with full commitment and trust. I went for the last move again, and this time I hung onto the lip. The whole squad cheered as I topped out. Experiencing the roller coaster of emotions through the entire session with the big group there made the send all the more enjoyable and celebratory, and I even did a shoey with some champagne that @sophia_climbs climbs had hiked up. It felt like a life goal had been achieved in the most glorious way!
Cover Photo by @stonemonsterclimbing #climbing #bouldering #rocklands
17 Jul 2025
Oh god⦠take!
Almost not being able to get back out of a bat-hang for the first time ever on the incredible and picturesque āFight Clubā. When the holds arenāt right underneath the hold youāre batting from, the difficulty increases. The shelf is also pretty slopey. It was one of the most gripping bats Iāve ever done! I think I would have just flipped over like a cat if Iād fallen though š¬š¹ good plan, right?
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š½ļø: @tannerott ā¤ļø
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@touchstoneclimbing
@mountainhardwear
@madrockclimbing
@gnarlynutrition
@dmm_wales
@frictionlabs
03 Sep 2023
Ghost Chant (Direct? V11+?)
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@jwebxl showed me footage of his FA just after he sent in 2018, and I was in awe. The climb tackles an imposing, streaked overhang with the most rocklands-esq moves Iāve ever seen on granite, ending with a committing dyno to the lip. It remained unrepeated until a few years ago when Keenan and Roman both sent using a more direct sequence slightly left of the finishing moves Jimmy did (almost different enough to be a separate variation, and likely quite a bit easier). In order to try it you need to get a decent number of pads down a VERY steep and technical hillside that is now, after a big wildfire, loose and covered in thorn bushes.
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On October 13th, after I sent another Jimmy FA called āCutthroatā, I was eating lunch in my van and heard the Chant in my heart. I knew hiking a full stack of pads down the hill would suck, and that I might not have enough to try it safely by myself, but my curiosity was too strong. I made the 30 minute drive from Echo lake to the parking for GC, hoisted two Duos and two inflatables plus gear onto my back and made my way down the scree slope. I saw GC from a distance and my heart sank- the jump at the end looked SO scary. I immediately regretted the solo mission. I spent an hour beefing up the landing, laid my pads down and thought, āseems like enoughā. I fell off the first move, which I think is physically the hardest and most technical, a few times before sticking it. I got set up for the jump with bad friction and thought, āHELL NOā, before jumping down. After resting a while I decided to have another go and got to the jump again with way better friction. This time I knew I had the physical level to do it, then and there, but I was so scared. After another couple non-efforts I was almost out of water, sunlight and energy. I was filled with anticipation knowing all I had to do to send was fully commit. On my next try I made the decision, stuck the jump and screamed my face off. Such a peak experience on such a legendary bloc! And in the end, I was so glad I went.
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For the record, I did top the whole boulder out after I sent but I donāt think it should be a requirement for
09 Nov 2026
āBlue Waveā aka, āElection Dayā V10+/-. FA: 4/11/26!
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This highball mega was cleaned and conceptualized by local young gun Drew Olden. Itās pretty sick to see people as young as he is going out to look for FAās. And also sick that heās happy to share the goods and not hoard!
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I had one roped session on this like five months ago and after an hour or two of effort I figured out a method that seemed fairly consistent on the crux which is around 6 meters off the deck.
Of course yesterday, after we rallied a bunch of friends and pads to the boulder, that method felt way more inconsistent and sketchy. Fortunately with Drewās help I made some modifications and found a slightly more secure way, and decided to give a ropeless effort. I was nervous but the moves flowed nicely on the send and sensations were good, as they say! I was happy not to test the fall.
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Yesterday, the day after the midterms in the US, I woke up here in South Africa and was so, SO relieved and happy to see the news that so many smart, compassionate, deeply empathetic leaders and lawmakers had been elected to office in the US. Thinking about it just makes me want to cry. The political situation in the US has been scary, to say the least. I really just want the people who need the most help to get the most help, so badly. And I think this is a big step toward that goal. All I can say is, THANK FUCK things turned out the way they did.
South Africaās ālocal governmentā election was yesterday, the day after Americaās. I havenāt seen much news about the results yet, but it felt somehow serendipitous to feel so happy about our election results here, on the day of their election, which here is a national holiday! At least theyāre doing that correctly.
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Massive thanks to the friends who schleped pads and hung out!
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@touchstoneclimbing
@mountainhardwear
@madrockclimbing
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@sendclimbing
@frictionlabs
05 Nov 2026
Try harder
29 Oct 2026
Find the master beta
27 Oct 2026
#201 Ethan Pringle ā The Level Of Difficulty In Pro Climbing, Why Beta Refinement Never Ends, and What Holds Back Most Climbers?
Supported by our Patrons ā Join for extended episodes, early access, bonus episodes, ad-free listening, and private Discord community
š· @threepeakfilms
26 Oct 2026
āCutthroatā V11
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Last Tuesday morning, upon a suggestion from a friend, I went to this new @jwebxl rig thatās just a five minute walk from the Echo Lake parking lot. The temps were cold and dry. I had 2 + hours to try it before the sun was in my eyes and then on the wall, and I managed to get it done after spending about an hour working out beta and another hour giving bottom rips. This thing is mega! The rock is a little crumbly in spots, but as far as movement goes, itās easily one of the best Iāve done in Tahoe. Every move is big and punchy between good holds until youāre standing on top!
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I really like solo bouldering sessions because you can go completely at your own pace, and they require a level of commitment and focus that having spotters and tons of pads donāt require.
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After sending Cutthroat, I had lunch in my van and then drove straight to the phantom spires to try another JWebb testpiece called Ghost Chant, a problem that ends with a dyno high off the ground, also by myself⦠Iāll advised?
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#rockclimbing
#bouldering
#boating
#solo
20 Oct 2026
Not a substitute for talk therapy, but a decent addition š¤·š¼āāļø
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Thanks to @avant_climbing_innovations for the video and rigging this line on āExcellent Adventireā. This was pretty much the moment I realized my pain tolerance for finger cracks has severely diminished since my 20s⦠also, u heard @alexhonnold soloed this for practice before the freerider and thatās fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup
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#climbing
#soloing
29 Sep 2026
Last Hurrah V10+ R (FA- 9/21)
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@jimthornburg told me about this line in the summer of 2018. I made the adventurous hike down there alone to scope it. I realized that if you fell off the lower half of the climb, you could land on this steep, jutting slab rather than in the deep water below. Despite the potential danger I rapped down the line. I made small links but decided it was way too hard to try without the rope.
I had one more rope session in 2021 and made a little progress, but it still felt way too risky.
For five years the line took up space in the back of my mind. I thought that if I could pad the slab, maybe Iād feel safe enough to give it a ropeless try.
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On my first session back this month I spent some time dialing in the subtleties. After hours of sussing, I almost sent the entire line without falling. By that point the conditions were warm, and my skin and body were fried, so I knew I had the level to send it fresh in better conditions. The big questions were, would I stay relaxed and committed enough to try 100? And if I slipped, where would I land?
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@toreyphilipp, @slumthin and @dyno_guru all answered my plea for support on IG. We brought three foam @madrockclimbing pads and two inflatables down to the climb. I tried to judge where I thought Iād land and cover every part of the slab, even one part that was just under the surface by floating an inflatable on the water. The temps were decent, and the wind was blowing. Iāve noticed that in situations like this, my mind tends to fill in the blank with worst case scenarios, and fear. I reminded myself that if I fell, all Iād come in contact with would be pads or water, and Iād be way more likely to be fine than get hurt. Eventually I decided to go for it. I was scared but committed. The decades of practice took over, and I ended up having that intense, peak experience I was after on the send. The pads ended up being mental pro, but absolutely necessary to commit.
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Is it a highball? A Solo? A DWS? Iām not sure, but it is a sick line! The group of climbers who would try something like this is extremely small, but I hope someone does someday!
28 Sep 2026
Whatās on your autumnal agenda this year?
It can be climbing, or non-climbing related!
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Chilly mornings in the mountains reminding us that fall is right around the corner. Fortunately my new @mountainhardwear Supply threads are perfect for those!
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#seekwilderpaths
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Pics by @toreyphilipp
25 Sep 2026
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