@bohemeextreme - IGDataHub

Brandon Johnson

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@bohemeextreme

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ATL - vintage fashion collector, sharing my finds and the stories behind them 😎

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open.substack.com/pub/vchamlee/p/how-to-build-a-designer-vintage-clothing?utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web

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I bought this @annasui sari-inspired dress on @ebay about 13 years ago. I remember it came from someone who also lived in the Atlanta area, which I always find interesting when I come across a particularly cool piece online. It’s from the Spring/Summer 1998 collection. I instantly recognized it as a dress worn by Kate Moss from a Harper’s Bazaar editorial from that year. Variations of the dress were also worn by Tyra Banks to the MTV Movie Awards and seen on the runway, as shown on Shalom Harlow. Rumored to be partially inspired after a dress Wallis Simpson (Duchess of Windsor) owned. The collection that season was a mix of surf culture, global travel, and South Asian-style bohemian prints. The perfect shade of pink and perfect summer dress 💖 14 Jun 2026

In the past tense 💐 19 May 2026

I’ve recently been back on my vintage grind, with a very productive week, and many good finds, but this one might be my absolute favorite 🩵💜 At an estate sale, I noticed this cloud of blue & purple fabric hanging on a clothing rack. This long train of silk fabric that bustled down the back immediately piqued my interest, but I couldn’t locate a label inside. After a moment it clicked in my head: “I know this piece,” and was picturing Naomi Campbell wearing it. A few Google clicks later my intuition was confirmed, Isaac Mizrahi Fall/Winter 1994. The skirt was featured in the iconic fashion documentary “Unzipped” detailing the making of Mizrahi’s collection that year. I started comparing mine to the photos online, and the waistband looked slightly different: the runway image appeared purple silk, while mine was blue grosgrain. I assumed the waist had been altered with new fabric replacing it. I even pondered if someone had made a replica referencing this piece. Regardless, it was too beautiful to pass up so I got it. Later that evening, I was finally able to really look it over to examine the details. I saw the inner waistband seam was hand-finished, but was coming loose in the corner. I felt a slight lump underneath the fabric and was like “hmm” maybe there is something underneath, lo and behold the original Isaac Mizrahi tags, confirming my suspicions. Once the seam was finally open I could see the original fabric underneath and started examining it closer, unfortunately, the top of the waistband fabric was ripping along the top, thus the replacement fabric. Hopefully, I can have it restored in the future with fabric like the original. Now I just need to find the matching blue fuzzy jacket next🤞🏼 03 May 2026

Estate Sale season already going hard 🏅 I had 30 minutes to shop a sale on Friday, and it seemed like everything had a sold sticker on it once I got inside. I noticed this little pillow sitting in a chair, but people were standing in front of it talking, so I kept on shopping. I finally circled back around and it still kept catching my eye, so finally when I got my chance to look I then realized it was vintage Hermés and $40, so yeah instantly SOLD to me. I also got the pillow behind it made with French fabric, which looks great together with this vintage blue velvet chair I already own. A fun find for the first day of spring and Mercury finally being out of retrograde. And yes, I'm in my Chintzy Granny decor era 🩵 22 Mar 2026

I thrifted this vintage Calvin Klein dress a decade ago for around $10 at a Value Village, and the moment I pulled it from the rack, I deemed it the “Carolyn” dress. It’s elegant, yet understated, some adjectives that can describe the woman herself. With Love Story: John Kennedy Jr & Carolyn Bessette currently airing the two have been brought back into the mainstream media. Their personal style and story helped define the cultural zeitgeist of the 90s. Carolyn’s minimal chic style has been flooding my Instagram feed. Images showcasing her love of the LBD (little black dress) and Manolo Blahniks reminded me of some pieces in my collection that I know she would have loved. I’ve always admired her style, and persona - a lover of fashion, but she wore the clothes, the clothes never wore her. She carried an air of mystery to her that we still analyze to this day. I always think about what Carolyn would wear if she were alive today. Would her style have changed over time, or stayed relatively the same? What brands would she wear? We will never really know, but I do know that she had a timelessness that still resonates with us. 01 Mar 2026

💘 14 Feb 2026

An unsung fashion hero of mine is Frances Patiky Stein. You may not recognize the name, but you’ve seen her work. Long Island, NY-born Stein was discovered by legendary editor Diana Vreeland, working as a fashion editor and stylist for Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, and Glamour throughout the 60s-70s. Stein styled Beverly Johnson’s 1974 Vogue issue, making her the first black model on the cover. She began working with Halston at the start of his career, helping set the tone of his brand of minimal chic. She eventually moved over to Calvin Klein as studio director, where they shared a similar aesthetic, using her personal style to help define the look of the brand at the time. Things eventually cooled between them when a reporter labeled a collection “Calvin Stein” and he quickly fired her. Around 1980, she was brought on to design jewelry, accessories, and ready-to-wear separates for Chanel. She revolutionized Chanel with the iconic bags, chunky chain gripoix & pearl jewelry, silk scarves, chic ballet flats, and luxurious cashmere sweaters that still define the look of the Chanel brand today, with Karl Lagerfeld still getting most of the credit for them. They both had a strong POV that created an icy rivalry, with Karl claiming she “diluted” his work. He eventually opened his own accessories studio at Chanel to try to define a line between their work, but Stein persisted and stayed with Chanel for a 20+ year-long career. Stein then retired and eventually passed away in 2021. In th late 80s, she launched her eponymous jewelry and accessories line (pieces shown above in my collection) made with the same quality and manufacturing as Chanel at the time. Stein never fully got the recognition she deserved for designing under her own name, but her work helped set the tone for many top fashion brands. Frances deserves to be known. I resonate with her work and find it similar to my own personal style aesthetic, minimal with a love of extravagant accessories💚 08 Feb 2026

One of my personal favorite designers to collect is Isaac Mizrahi Isaac’s runway collections were the epitome of 90s fashion, featuring the top supermodels of the day walking in his shows, while using the most gorgeous materials, and silhouettes. So beautiful and deserving of more praise, I can’t get enough of his vintage stuff! If you want to learn more about his early career a must-see is the fashion documentary film “Unzipped” showing a behind-the-scenes look at the building of his Fall 1994 collection leading up to the runway show. Go watch it! This gorgeous brocade coat from the F/W 1996 was seen on the runway on Naomi Campbell. The same brocade fabric was featured in the ad campaign that season. It was an eBay find a few years ago, and I love it so much 💕 18 Jan 2026

I always say “once an it-bag, always an it-bag” and good design will always come back around. The YSL Mombasa bag has been on the comeback for a few years now. If you’re in the vintage world, it’s been an IYKYK thing for a little while now, with many people quietly snapping them up. 10 years ago you couldn’t give these bags away, and now they’ve become highly covetable. Luckily, I was able to score mine for next to nothing. I’ve been patiently waiting for Saint Laurent to jump on the trend and reintroduce a new version, which finally happened in a new ad campaign starring Bella Hadid. The updated version of the bag comes with a hefty price tag of $5,600 USD! Introduced in the S/S 2002 collection by Tom Ford during his tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the bag quickly became a favorite of celebrities and fashionistas, but eventually faded away during the 2010s. Named the Mombasa, it pays homage to Yves Saint Laurent’s African roots. Known for its iconic horn handles, which were made in different styles that were also interchangeable. The bag was seen in the 2002 runway and ad campaign with model Liya Kebede. Hold on to your iconic pieces, they will usually come back around, sooner, or later! When that time comes if you don’t love them anymore then it’s the perfect time to sell. If you don’t already own it, always try to buy low before they make an official comeback. With so many fashion bodies digging into their archives, it will inevitably be popular again. Once an it-bag, always an it-bag. 11 Jan 2026

2026 is starting with a bang💥 On New Year’s Day, my kind friend gifted me this incredible Yves Saint Laurent sequin suit from the F/W 1992 Rive Gauche collection. I’m so obsessed!!! 🖤 The wonderful thing about the vintage community is the incredible people that you will encounter who will bring pieces your way. My friend thrifted this years ago, hung on to it, and finally thought of me recently, knowing I’d give it a good home. It’s soooo me! I love a vintage YSL, and a sequin. Make vintage friends and try to share the love, it will eventually come back to you. The jacket was seen on the runway on legendary model Beverly Peele. Photographed by the equally legendary Roxanne Lowit, included in her must-have book, Yves Saint Laurent by Roxanne Lowit, as shown in the second photo. A quick tip for dating ’80s and ’90s YSL, if it has a paper tag in the label, the first letter represents the season, A or H, Autumn/Automne, Winter/Hiver. If it starts with P or E, Spring/Printemps, Summer/Ete. Then the numbers represent the year. This tag reads H92, meaning hiver/winter 1992. Other French fashion houses have similar ways of dating the clothes on the tags from this time period. Happy New Year, and happy hunting! I hope we find lots of vintage goodies in 2026 🤞🏼🌟 04 Jan 2026

Last weekend, the brilliant Virginia Chamlee featured my vintage story on her informative Substack: What’s Left, which showcases all things thrifting/vintage/design, the art of the hunt for it, along with Virginia’s inspiring story that led her down this path. Please check out my feature (link in bio) if you’ve ever wanted to get a peek inside my head for some thrift tips, haute tea on some of my best finds, biggest thrift regrets, and how my vintage journey began. And if you love it, please follow and subscribe to @vchamlee to learn more about the incredible world of thrifting and vintage collecting. Hi! to my new followers who came over from the feature! Welcome and thanks for following. I have so many new pieces that I want to showcase soon, so thanks for the motivation to post. I can’t wait to share with you. And thank you to Virginia for sharing my story 🖤 20 Dec 2025

I recently acquired this gorgeous 1970s Oscar de la Renta blue velvet and silk dress on @ebay . The photos for the listing really didn’t do it any justice; it was a sagging blue blob of fabric on a hanger, but it helped in my case, as I snagged it for the super low price of $9.99 + shipping. It is so beautiful in person - the perfect holiday dress! It has the Oscar de la Renta Boutique label inside, which they used from the late 1960s until the late 1970s, so if you ever run across this label, this is an easy way to date the period for Oscar. His earliest labels will say Oscar de la Renta for Jane Derby, or just Oscar de la Renta in a similar font to this one, and the latter simply Oscar de la Renta in an updated brown font. I love Oscar and he’s one of my favorite designers to collect, especially his older pieces. I want to eventually do a deep dive into the history of the brand, the man, and showcase some of my favorite pieces by him that I’ve collected over the years, but until then I hope you enjoy this beauty 💙 21 Dec 2025

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DZlL3V8lJa9	I bought this @annasui sari-inspired dress on @e…
DYio3LDlGHv	In the past tense 💐
DX49HFfCaDF	I’ve recently been back on my vintage grind, wit…

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shortcode	caption	likes	comments
DZlL3V8lJa9	I bought this @annasui sari-inspired dress on @e…
DYio3LDlGHv	In the past tense 💐
DX49HFfCaDF	I’ve recently been back on my vintage grind, wit…

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